Dyeing Tips

Peggy Brennan offers tips on dyeing with natural materials

Space dyed (multicolor) reed at
..In A Handbasket --->

Want a special color? Consult the Rit Dye color mixing chart. Click on "Custom Colors Recipes" for particulars.
How to dye seagrass from Linda Boyle Gibson of in a Handbasket: I dye many hundreds of pounds of the seagrass. The trick is to have the dye bath HOT HOT HOT and very concentrated. I can't emphasize these two enough. My dye is simmering (and sometimes boiling over) and in a canner sized kettle I probably use 3-4 boxes of Rit dye. This is a bit difficult for me to measure because I buy the 5 pound containers of dye and I usually put 3-5 scoops, coffee measuring size, in a pot. The larger industrial size pots I use require more of course.

Do not uncoil the seagrass. Cut of all but one of two of the ties holding it together and submerge it in the hot dye. I use one pound coils and weigh the coils down with pieces of lumber. I usually let it "cook" for 5-15 minutes -- depending on the concentration and the color. Some colors go faster and if the dye is really charged that helps too. After several coils are done, I always add another scoop of dye to charge it back up.

Some people think that adding a squirt of dish detergent to the dye bath lowers the surface tension and allows the seagrass to absorb the dye faster. I have tried this and honestly couldn't tell any difference and I don't bother with it since it is something else to do.

Drying the seagrass is critical. It can mold and mildew very fast, so it needs to be hung and "fluffed" everyday. I have clothes hangers bent, hanging all around my work room, old drying racks, and even old coat trees that I hang the stuff from. I turn on fans to keep the air moving --- and this is in an air conditioned area! It will take a good week for the seagrass to dry if in 1 pound coils --- this is why I NEVER use the 3 pound coils --- it takes to damn long to dry.

I think most people know not to wet the seagrass when using it and if it does get wet, it will bleed very badly.

Hope this answers your question. Basically it is a pain for most folks if they only need a little bit -- and since I sell it for $8.00 a pound, it seems like a deal if you factor in the cost of the dye and all the time. (6/20/00)

Twig Mather suggests: When pouring dye into jugs for storing, make an inexpensive funnel by cutting off the top of a two-liter, plastic bottle.

Editor's note: If you use the top of a 16 - 20 oz. plastic bottle (like Coke or water bottles) to make a funnel, it will snap into the neck of a gallon jug and hold steady while you pour in the dye.

Kim Renich says: I store my liquid dye in milk jugs in a shed. Occasionally they spring a leak. Now I set a disposable pie tin under each jug. Also, I've learned to use plastic clothes pins for dyeing because they don't absorb the stain like the wooden ones do.

Andrea Wade offers this "undyeing" hint (which incidentally she says also works for mold) : To produce stone washed/sun bleached Southwestern colors: over dye reed by immersing it in boiling dye, drying without rinsing, then redyeing it again in heated dye. Dry it a second time without rinsing. Dampen reed and loosely coil it on the top shelf of a dishwasher and run it through a wash cycle (without the heated drying cycle if possible) using POWDERED dishwasher detergent - either Cascade or Sunlight do a good job. I also tried Electrosol but I was not satisfied with the results. The bleaching effect will not happen with any of the three liquid dishwasher detergents I used. NOTE: DO NOT do this outside the dishwasher. Powdered dishwasher detergents, when mixed with water, make a highly caustic solution that can cause severe chemical skin burns and/or permanent scarring of the cornea.

Andrea also offers this tip: The makers of Rit have a chart on how to make color blends that is available by writing to: Rit Consumer Affairs, CPC Specialty Products, 1437 West Morris Street, Indianapolis, IN 46221 or by calling (317) 231-8044.

Cheri Brance writes: I always read that people who dye reed use a whole box of dye and do lots of reed at once. Since I like to use lots of different colors and only need a little at a time, I only make up about 1/2 cup of one color and store each color in a small pint-sized bottle (Snapple is perfect). I boil my dies in a Pyrex measuring cup that I only use for dyes, since Rit and such are poisonous. Then I use a Hefty One Zip bag to mix my reed and dye together--the bag isn't affected by the boiling water. It really helps eliminate messes since you can really seal the bag--Glad-loc styles don't work well at all. Excess can be poured right back into the measuring cup or bottle. Then I fill the bag with cold water, seal again and rinse right in the bag. I let the reed dry before I use it, since this seems to set the color, and then I lightly dampen it when I use it so it won't bleed. I also like to mix my dye color together to get new colors--mixing only small amounts makes this much easier. (Liquid Rit seems to give much better color and mixtures.)
Chuck from C & D Baskets suggests tye dying reed creates a unique look. This is done by tying a small amount of plain reed together and then dipping it in four or five different coordinated colors. This is a long process because each color should dry before dipping into the next color.

Lucy Cote wrote to suggest when working with small children and the possible toxic and staining effects of dyes are a concern, reed can be dyed with Kool Aid. She says is produces a subtle color which is very nice for Easter baskets.

Debra Van Briesen says: "I've found that putting salt in with the hot Rit dye and then soaking briefly in salt and vinegar water then rinsing with cold water makes my reed very colorfast. On the very 'bad' colors such as red or navy, I may also slightly pat dry (just so it is not dripping) with an old towel just before weaving as this helps bleeding etc. Also be sure to pack well before weaving a color piece and as you go so you don't have to move the weavers much after they are in place."

Debra also offers: "When walnut hull stain has dried, I spray it with Old English Lemon Oil (you have to put it in your own spray bottle). It really brightens everything up and dries nicely. It does wonders for the hardwood handles and other parts that tend to look "dry and old."

A big thank you to Barb Booth of Florida for the following tips on dyeing reed.

Dyeing Secrets

Dyes can be made with just about anything that can be boiled and produces color. Start with kitchen items and go out the back door to find other alternatives. The key to colorful permanent dyes that produce colors that last is to use boiling hot water wit h whatever you mix it with. Then just dip the coiled reed until you get the color you like. Rinse afterwards with cool water. You can add vinegar or salt to the rinse water to ensure colorfastness.

Suggested dye items:

Kool-aid (unsweetened)
Jell-O (unsweetened)
Strong tea - the English teas are the best but even instant iced tea mix works
Rit dyes
Easter egg dyes
Mushrooms
Berries
Mariqold flowers
Onion skins
Walnut, Pecan & Sunflower hulls
Hibiscus leaves
Zinnia flowers
Iris flowers

I highly recommend you use rubber gloves, a wooden spoon for dipping and stirring, and wear an apron or an old shirt (the same one every time!). Even the neatest person can have an accident which can ruin an outfit. Use the gas grill outdoors to boil hull s and plants to avoid stinking up the kitchen.

Most dyers use enamel pots. A copper or iron pot may change the color; nevertheless, it may be just the color you are looking for. Discarded enamel vegetable bins from old refrigerators are very useful. You can also use a glass or Pyrex bowl in the microw ave.

Some people even use the washing machine, though that can be hard on the reed and cause splitting or splinters to appear. If you use this method, use a small load, delicate cycle, and hot water. Add 1 cup vinegar to the rinse cycle to make it colorfast. R un an empty rinse cycle after the dye is used to prevent any from coloring your clothes.

The mineral content of water may affect the color. Choose rain water, soft water, or distilled water over deep-well or municipal water.

Flowers:

Use petals and yellow inner petals (stamen?) while they are stiil fresh for the strongest dyes. Don't use the stems. This is a good way to recycle flower arrangements. A qood indicator of a dye flower is whether it leaves color on your table top or finge rs when you touch it.

Berries:

Mash ripe berries and fruits enough to make the juices flow; wait a few hours; then simmer briefly. To obtain rich dyes, use plenty of dyestuff.

Rit Dyes:

Boil 1 1/2 gallons water for one package Rit dye. Dip until desired color. Unused Rit dye can be stored in a plastic milk jug without refrigeration until needed aqain. Dye will maintain its original color best if stored away from light. Most other colorants need to be frozen to prevent them from getting rancid. Just heat up again before using. You can use a glass dish in the microwave to keep things easy.

Hulls:

In the fall gather walnut (makes brown), pecan (red/orange) or sunflower (gray) hulls. Remove the hulls with a hammer; crush them; place them in an old stocking or knee high; cover with water; and boil. Strain the stain; and immerse your material until i t turns the desired shade. Store the stocking with hulls in a plastic bag in the freezer to be used again. Stain can be poured into a spray bottle and sprayed or painted onto the finished basket.

(A word of caution: Even some natural materials, especially tobacco, will produce harmful vapors when heated. Plan to work with these materials out-of-doors or in a very well-ventilated work space.

Basket Stain Recipe:

2 pouches loose chewing tobacco
6 Tbsp. ground coffee
2 quarts ammonia

Cover and let stand for about 2 weeks. Work outside because of the ammonia fumes. This stain will not sour or go bad. Add more ammonia if stain is too dark. Baskets can be dipped or stained.

Editor's note: Barb is an innovative vine basketmaker. To see her Hurricane Opal basket, visit color photos

Fading (and more about hulls):

Judith Olney writes: I have found a lot of the natural dyes to be very fugitive. It's embarassing to have some one tell you that a basket you sold them that was dyed with logwood and sweet fern (properly mordanted, etc.) has absolutely no color left after 5 years! I have even had indigo fade out of a basket. The only natural dye I know that is absolutely permanent is black walnut.

Also, panty hose with the legs tied off make a wonderful container for the nuts and it is easier to just leave them inside the hulls. Panty hose also make wonderful strainers to remove the gunk that accumulates when you use the dye.

Judith Jones suggests: There is a slower way, just as effective, to make your own walnut dye. Pick up the walnuts in the fall, place them in a five gallon bucket or a galvanized trash can, cover them with rain water and let them set. I have mine outsid e so they freeze and thaw as the weather does. When I need new "brew", I use panty hose to strain off the nuts and sludge from the husks. Then I add my new brew to my old which I keep inside the garage in a galvanized trash can. I always have a good su pply of dye. With the dye in the trash can, I can dip a whole finished basket with nice results.

(Ed. note: You might want to leave the nuts lay out in the air for a while before doing this. In our part of the country they have little worms that need a chance to get away so you don't find them floating on top of your "brew.")

To make your own walnut basket stain, boil walnut hulls (feed the nuts to the squirrels first, you don't need them) in a large kettle of water. Putting them in cheesecloth bags first makes removal of the hulls from the stain much easier. Cooking them outdoors on a gas grill makes the kitchen smell much better too.
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