THE ALPACA FIBER SYMPOSIUM

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April 4-6, 2009 Event Description

EVENT REVIEW

WHAT AN EVENT!!!
Symposium in session at Gaston College
John Anderson addressing the symposium in session at Gaston College

The following shows the agenda followed during the April 4-5, 2009 Alpaca Fiber Symposium.  Both days were packed with information covering a wide range of topics relating to alpaca fiber.

Alpaca Fiber Symposium Agenda

FRIDAY April 3 at HAMPTON INN Gastonia

5:30PM - 6:30PM Registration
6:30PM - 8:30PM Meet and Greet sponsored by The Grandview Group


SATURDAY April 4 at GASTON COLLEGE

8AM - 9AM Late Registration


AM TODAY SESSION

9AM - 9:30AM Introductions, Meeting Format, Logistics

 


9:30AM - 12:15PM TODAY PRESENTER Sessions                                                                                                                                              Groups will have displays set up in 2nd floor hallway. Mini break out sessions will be ongoing.
During that same time period, tours of Gaston College Textile Department and forensic lab were held.  Small breakout groups were escorted through the mill equipment area, lab testing, and weaving test area.  Over 125 attendees were moved through the tours in 3 hours.

PM - TOMORROW SESSIONS

12:15 - 12:30 Break and lunch set up in auditorium
12:30 - 12:45 Participants get lunch and find seating
12:45 - 2:00 SPEAKER - Helmut Herguth,  NC Textile College during lunch
2:00 - 2:15 Break
2:15 - 3:15 SPEAKER - Kraemer Textiles - David Schmidt, President
3:15 - 3:30 Break
3:30 - 4:30 SPEAKER - Carolina Specialties - Marcel Deshaies, Mfg of natural fiber processing machinery
4:30 - 4:45 Break
4:45 - 5:45 SPEAKER - Sam Buff, Textile Testing Specialist Gaston College Fiber Testing Services

Everyone on their own for dinner

SUNDAY APRIL 5

AM BEYOND SESSIONS

8:00 - 9:00 TODAY Presenter booths open again                
8:30 - 9:00AM Recap and Logistics
9:00 - 10:00AM SPEAKER - PDI & DSTA - Gary
10:00 - 10:15AM Break
10:15 - 11:15AM SPEAKER - Suzanne Devall GREENPOD Development LLC, Highbred Organics
11:15 - 11:30AM Break
11:30 - 12:30 SPEAKER - John Anderson, Director - Gaston College Textile Center
12:30 - 12:45 Break and Lunch Set Up
12:45 - 3:00PM lunch and open forum
3:00 - 3:30PM wrap up/thanks/future goals

TODAY SESSIONS Presenters:

Helmut Herguth, North Carolina College of Textiles, www.tx.ncsu.edu/faculty_center/directory/detail.cfm?id=42

My teaching focus is all management aspects of the textile and apparel industries, and my research focus is in the areas of cost and finance strategies for textiles, textile technology management, etc. 
Started to get involved with Alpaca Fiber and the Business Model about two years ago, looking at how the College of Textiles can help in furthering the Alpaca Fiber Market. 
 
About the Ideas for the Fiber Business Model: 
 
The College of Textiles is looking at what role it may play within the Alpaca Fiber complex, and how we might play a role in promoting such an industrial complex. 
 
a) Today a crafts industry exists, and the market for Alpaca Fiber for hand spinning and for hand knitting consists of very limited amounts at very high prices. 
b) An Alpaca Business Model at the industrial scale should not interfere with the existing market and leave the present "craft model" intact. 
c) An industrial scale business model would provide a market for larger amounts of fiber produced especially by "fiber-only" or "mostly-fiber" farms, whose primary objective is not breeding Alpaca. Business model includes issues of shearing, sorting, fiber collection, fiber processing and product development, marketing and distribution. 
d) Business model needs to address some critical topics: Fiber quantities (economies of scale, collection, capacities), fiber prices (domestic vs. world market), product development and product qualities, manufacturing, marketing and branding, and ownership (e.g., COOP or not). 
 
 Research Interests:

  • Management Applications in the Textile and Apparel Industries
  • Strategic Textile Management
  • Textile Technology Management
  • Cost and Financial Management
  • Business Visualization
  • Vertical Cooperation of the Various Stages in the Integrated Textile Complex
  • Textile Education, integration of entrepreneurship and business concepts into traditional textile and fashion education 

 Education:

Ph.D., Business Management, 1986
Westfalische Wilhelms-Universitat, Muenster, Germany

MBA, Diplomkaufmann, 1982
Westfalische Wilhelms-Universitat, Muenster, Germany

B.S., Textiles, 1980
North Carolina State University

 

 TOMORROW SESSION Presenters:

Carolina Specialty, Inc. - Marcel Deshaies, Manufacturer of natural fiber processing machinery   www.carolinaspecialtyinc.com/

 

Originally from New England with family ties to textile machinery

manufacturing. Relocated to Charlotte NC in the late 1960's. Began work

with the Whitin Machine Company, later to become the Whitin Roberts

Company (WR), at one time the largest preparatory textile machine mfg. in

the world up onto the early 1960's. Served various positions including

but not limited to building machines, both new and rebuilds, product

analyst, sales, management and engineering. Resigned from WR to start

Carolina Specialty,Inc in 1992. Have been a major supplier of machinery,

parts and service for textiles, carpet manufactures, tire cord, knitting

and various specialty machines and markets.

Launched machines for the "Community Mill" equipment in 2003.

 

Kraemer Textiles - David Schmidt, President 32 years in the Textile Industry   www.kraemeryarns.com

Education: graduate of the Hill School (Pottstown, Pa). 2 years completed at St. Lawrence University, Canton, N.Y., no college degree (I went into the family business immediately).
Career 32 years in the Textile industry. 6 years as a shift supervisor, 6 as plant manager, 4 years as V.P. manufacturing, 4 years as V.P. Sales and Marketing, and 12 years as President. I have extensive experience selling to and trouble shooting yarn problems in carpet, upholstery,knitwear, and other areas of the Textile Industry.
Personal: Youth Soccer coach for 20 years,Former Scoutmaster, B.S.A., former chairman, Park and Rec Commission Borough of Emmaus. Married, 2 children, 2 grand children (girls 9 and 7).

 

Gaston College Fiber Testing Services - Sam Buff, Textile Testing Specialist www.gaston.edu/aboutus/campuseast.html

Sam Buff is a Textile Testing Specialist at the Textile Technology Center at Gaston College.  Sam joined the Textile Center in August of 2003.  Sam spent several years in plant operations of the optical fiber business with Alcatel Telecommunications.  He also spent five years as the Quality Control Manager at Spectrum Dyed Yarns. 

He holds an MBA from Pfeiffer University, a BS in Textile Chemistry from North Carolina State University and an AS in Engineering from Catawba Valley Community College.  He resides in Lincolnton, North Carolina on a small farm where he raises beef catte and breeds Redbone Coonhounds.  Also, he writes a monthly column for the United Kennel Club.

 

BEYOND SESSION Presenters:

 

Gary Mitchell  - "Fostering the rapid development of defense and security technology solutions to meet military need and private industry demands"   www.dstanc.org

Gary E. Mitchell is the Senior Business Developer for the Partnership for Defense Innovation (PDI) and the Defense and Security Technology Accelerator (DSTA) in the Charlotte area. Mr. Mitchell earned his B.A. in Political Science and a Masters fo Public Administration from the University of North Carolina in Charlotte. He specializes and has published in the field of political violence and right-wing terrorism, research methodology and religion. Additionally, Mr. Mitchell is an adjunct faculty member at UNC Charlotte where he teaches courses such as Political Violence and Terrorism, International Relations and Global Issues. Mr. Mitchell also served almost 9 years on active duty with the U.S. Army; some of which was spent in the special operations community.

Prior to joining PDI, he was the District Director for U.S. Congressman Robin Hayes where his duties included working with local, state and federal officials on projects of particular concern to the district, assisting with the development of public policy and directing all staff and operations within the congressional district. In particular, Mr. Mitchell was instrumental in the defense arena with regards to the latest round of Base Realignment and Closure, assisting with the recruitment of defense contractors to the district and ensuring that the interests of Ft. Braff and Pope AFB were given significant priority regarding the legislative process.

Mr. Mitchell has a definitive understanding of the federal appropriations process and has worked on numerous projects that lead to the creation of careers and significant economic development within the state. He has a proven track record of bridging political, socio-economic and cultural hurdles in pursuit of public good objectives.

 

Suzanne Duvall - Eco friendly and organic blending of alpaca fiber to create alternative textiles for fashion, upholstery and beyond www.greenpoddevelopment.com

In the early 1990's Suzanne begin her search for organic cotton and hemp resources large enough to supply a textile collection for use in furniture and home accessories. At this time there were yarns available in small quantities mainly for home weavers and none had been tested for residential or commercial use.  Most yarn were spun for knitting and table loom application and the mills in the US were not available to process, spin, or weave any large quantities of organic cotton. This cotton was considered likely to contaminate the De-Gumming machines as well as the looms where only white conventional cotton was woven.  Organic cotton is not white and therefore not desired by the mills as they would have to create special production runs and the programs were not large enough to interest them.  In early 1997 Suzanne found one mill that would work on an organic program if the commitment could be made for a large enough program to support the changes necessary for such a collection. Most of the mills in the U.S. had closed due to environmental issues that could not be solved and they were forced to shut down.  Production of much of the U.S. cotton was forced to go overseas and caused a shortage in available production that could provided weaving, spinning, dying and processing of organic cotton programs. 

In the spring of 1998 the first home collection was created from organic cotton and hemp. There were very few places that such a collection could be showcased as this was new territory. One green retailer in New York agreed to launch the collection " Terre Verde" in Soho.  The program had remarkable success and it was covered by magazines, and press to the point other retailers began to take notice and stock some of the goods.  From 2000-2004 home collections begin to take hold in the market and even though it was difficult to support such a large program it managed to survive.

 In 2002 Suzanne created and launched "Nandina" The Future Fiber" a large collection of Towels and Robes made exclusively from proprietary yarns Suzanne developed from organic cotton and plantation grown bamboo. This was the first collection to be placed in the retail market for bed and bath that contained the newly developed bamboo fiber blend. Bamboo had such a historical and unique story as it was never a yarn or used before in textiles. Bamboo was difficult to process as it is very structural and resilient to softening.  Japan was able to process the bamboo plant by using methods that worked for viscose.  At this time only a very fine yarn that could be knit into a T-Shirt was being made and it had a polyester core.  Finding a way to replace the polyester with organic cotton, Suzanne was able to spin bamboo into a suitable yarn blend that would work for towels and bath textiles.  The mill in Japan that committed to her program also could dye the towels with low impact dyes that did not harm the earth or those who worked in the factories.

The mill also was running on wind power a very timely story for sustainable products.  It took until 2004 to develop the first bamboo towel collection large enough to launch in the U.S. market made from certified organic cotton and bamboo.  Nandina was born ! See www.nandina.org  Over 400 stores today carry the Nandina collection and bamboo is now a mainstay used in sustainable textiles.

2005-2007 Suzanne begin to develop a textile collection made exclusively from Bamboo, Hemp, and other sustainable plant fibers. Eco-Viera yarn was developed by Suzanne. Eco Viera is a proprietary yarn blend that is suitable for residential and commercial furniture collections and will meet and exceed the standards necessary to pass rigorous abrasion testing.  In order to have a truly sustainable product, one that does not impact the planet and human health it is necessary to have every aspect of the manufacturing process credible.  Certification needs to be provided and energy sources need to be preserved along with water resources. Harmful chemicals must not be used in processing or discharged into our water systems. This has been an ongoing issue and one not easily solved.  However today a number of mills and processing plants have seen the serious problems such chemicals pose to everyday life and the  health of  factory workers including their local community.  Eco-Viera will be available in 2009 and will be sold for use in production textile programs globally.

2007-2009 Residential Home Designer and  Builder Ann Raab and Suzanne DeVall formed a company called "GreenPod Development located in Port Townsend Washington. GreenPod is a sustainable transportable pod like home that uses certified healthy building materials both inside and out. The pod structures are energy efficient and has a low impact on the land. The pods vary in size from 400 sq ft. to 1200 sq ft and come in many styles.  Suzanne created textiles, furniture, bed and bath collections as well as linens for GreenPod to support a completely healthy environment. Clients can choose interior materials in several design styles and can customize many aspects of the interior and exterior. 

Please see our web site for complete information on GreenPod. www.greenpoddevelopment.com all the specifications, plans and interiors are listed for you to review.

Suzanne DeVall is a pioneer in the sustainable industry and feels a great deal of responsibility for our planet. "There is thankfully a large shift globally to bring healthy product programs to the market place so all can enjoy safe and healthy products for our homes."

Suzanne's contact information is:

Highbred Organics

15015 Washington Ave NE.

Bainbridge Island, Washington 98110

206 201-3107 Office

suzannedevall@gmail.com email

 

John Anderson, Director, Gaston College Textile Center, www.gaston.edu/aboutus/campuseast.html

 

John Anderson is the Director of the East Campus and Textile Technology Center at Gaston College. John joined the Center in November of 2006, after a brief flirtation with retirement.

John spent 38 years marketing synthetic fiber with Celanese, Hoechst-Celanese, and Wellman, Inc. He retired from the position of Vice-President, New Products in March of 2006. 

He holds an MBA in Marketing from New York University (The Stern School), a BA in Economics from Gettysburg College and is a graduate of the Program for Management Development at Harvard Business School.  He also taught Fashion Merchandising at Fashion Institute of Technology as an adjunct faculty member.

He resides in Waxhaw, NC and also writes a weekly column for the Charlotte Observer

 

Alpaca Fiber Symposium Particulars -

"Today, Tomorrow and Beyond..."

The "Today" section of the symposium was represented by various groups that are already making and marketing products out of alpaca fiber on a large scale. We heard from their representatives, how they go about it and what their expectations and hopes are. We also took a tour of The Textile Technology Center at Gaston College.  We were able to view a mini mill with a new advanced spinning machine as well as a tour of their complete fiber and fabric testing laboratory.  It became very apparent of the possibilities available to us in testing alpaca fiber. 
The "Tomorrow" section dealt with present day activities that are already engaged in searching for tomorrow's alpaca products.  Our speaker lineup included a review of the services available at North Carolina University Textile College, a large yarn manufacturing mill owner/operator, a mill equipment designer and manufacturer and a presentation of the available possibilities for testing alpaca fiber from the Textile Testing Specialist at the Textile Technology Center at Gaston College.

The "Beyond" section explored possible new areas of research and investigation of applications for our alpaca fiber. Our speaker lineup included someone familiar with the leading edge of military needs and procurement and someone who has been and is currently active in the textile design field for many years.  She brought us a forward thinking view on the process of active and productive research that results in a new product, development of high quality organic and eco friendly textiles and their successful marketing.

Our Sunday keynote speaker was John Anderson, the Director of the Textile Center at Gaston College. The textile center is a center of industrial application of textiles and the tweaking of processes as well as completely up to date chemistry lab and a well equipped fiber forensics lab.  Mr. Anderson's enjoyable, forward thinking presentation gave us food for thought in the possible trends and paths the alpaca fiber industry has before us.

Be sure to check out the link to our presenters and see their biographies including those in the TOMORROW and BEYOND sections.
The Alpaca Fiber Symposium steering committee wishes to thank everyone who helped make this event a success.  The ability for everyone to openly share information, discuss possibilities, network with others and make new friends created an environment of excitement and anticipation of what our alpaca fiber industry can be.
We are pleased to announce The Alpaca Fiber Symposium is planning another similar event to be held in 2009 in Denver, Colorado.  Details will be posted as they develop.  Please check back with us.

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The following is the result of the questions presented to the attendees at the Alpaca Fiber Symposium.  During the open session on Sunday afternoon, those present were asked to come forward and write their answers to the questions onto large sheets of paper taped to the walls.  These sheets were collected and the written results compiled below.  It is hoped that these results will stimulate further discussion on how to move the fiber aspect of the alpaca industry forward.  Please stay tuned as to how to give your input.

 "Homework" questions and answers from the "Brainstorming Session" of The Alpaca Fiber Symposium

"The amount of check marks, if any, indicate how many other people supported the individual statement besides the original author.  Therefore every statement has at least one supporter.  Just add the check marks, if any, plus one and you have the total active supporters of the statement."

 

Who should be involved in advancing the domestic alpaca fiber industry and how?

 

1) Various groups which represent views of membership

2) Those that is willing.

3) A national brand i.e.: Cotton "The look, the feel of _______, the fabric of your life!

4) AOBA needs to get involved.

5) A person with marketing experience.

6) Involve logistics experts to develop distribution/collection functions.

7) Every alpaca producer, by breeding for uniformity.  By utilizing standardized shearing/sorting processes. By using alpaca personally.  By embracing other fibers.  (Two check marks on this one, meaning three people supported this statement)

8) All of us and thank you.

9) People who understand fiber and/or are willing to learn.

10) Every alpaca breeder - learn, educate, share.

 

What information do you need to facilitate product development?

 

1) We need to know the properties of the product that we have.  Not by individual animal, but the properties that apply to all alpaca fiber. (Two check marks)

2) System development.

3) Access to fashion/ home decor industry for trends and help developing products.

4) Documentation on the health benefits of alpaca attribute, such as improved circulation and effects on menopause, outside the box

5) Direct leads to those that can provide the protocol and system to proceed.

6) Standardize grades.  (Four check marks on this one)

7) A brokerage house - market! (Three check marks on this one)

8) How does this work to help allow profit from fiber production?  Don't know about commodities markets - education.

9) We need a comprehensive list of industry terms.

 

 What role do you want the Alpaca Fiber Symposium to play in the fostering of a domestic alpaca fiber industry?

 

1) Do it! (Three check marks on this one)

2) Open up for membership - solve all of the issues brought up today!

3) Looking beyond "what is" to "what can be." (Two check marks on this one)

4) Meetings at the affiliate level with a textile-experienced facilitator and structured sessions. (Four check marks on this one)

5) Establish active committees to include industry leaders to begin these proposals.

6) Growing information on a website. (Four check marks on this one)

7) Facilitate testing alpaca fiber blends.

8) Information

9) Facilitate cross border information trading. (One check mark on this one)

10) Crunch the numbers and make sure the amount of wool is viable.

11) Continue the conversation. (Two check marks on this one)

12) Education. (Three check marks on this one)

13) Keep doing these seminars with leads into new options for our end (or raw) product. (One check mark on this one)

 

What information regarding marketing alpaca products would be useful to you?

 

1) Fashion trends and trend prediction/forecasting like other industries (consumer). (Three check marks on this one)

2) Yearly alpaca product sales with demographics.

3) Again - testing so we can give accurate, truthful information about alpaca fiber - don't think this can be emphasized enough - Then educate/develop new customer base. (Four check marks on this one)

4) Sharing successes. (Two check marks on this one)

5) Strengths of alpaca especially compared to other fibers.

6) Who is buying, where and when! (One check mark on this one)

7) Not quite marketing - but develop a group of people who would grade and sort fiber - probably not animal people - a new occupation - to get that fiber out of closets (already in place NAAFP).

8) A data base where produce[r]s list their inventory and industry posts their needs (like the Missouri Hay Listings). (One check mark on this one)

 

What further research needs to be accomplished in order to advance the domestic alpaca fiber industry?

 

1) Are there enough alpacas currently and projected that will produce enough fiber to accommodate both a commercial/cottage industry?

2) Produce a comparison of U.S. vs. South American blends and Australia.

3) Should we breed to remove medulated (i.e. guard hair) fibers?  These fibers cool the animal and are good for its health!

4) Analyze production costs/lb. vs. income/lb./product - grade.

5) Tensile strength, moisture regain, decomposition rate.

6) Scouring and washing facilities

7) Test to determine if lock types process differently from one another.

8) We need to identify and test different fiber "types" to get best product for least processing. (Two check marks on this one)

9) We need to get the definition of breed stocks out of the hands of promoters and into the hands of people who understand fiber and it properties.

10) If we know what properties alpaca fiber has, then we can effectively evaluate the possibilities for this fiber - ALL the possibilities! (Two check marks on this one)

11) Valid, reliable test results on key attributes.  (One check mark on this one)

12) Test insulation vs. other fiber types (flammability, absorbency, R factor). (Two check marks on this one)

13) Verify industry claims - hypoallergenic, tensile strength, and elasticity - abrasion tests/durability.

14) Sorting/grading standardized and who standardizes.

15) Communication between the textile industry processors to establish the attributes of alpaca fibers and parameters.

16) Establishment of quality standards for finished alpaca goods.

17) National logo/identity.

18) Research models in wool industry for getting fiber from farm to end user -brokers.

 

What are the greatest challenges you face as a producer of alpaca products?

 

1) Match fiber with best end product.

2) Reliable and predictable fiber supply.

3) Access to capital to produce products.

4) Breeding of uniformity and comprehensive understanding of sorting.

5) Don't reinvent the wheel.

6) Marketing tools to appeal to the customer.

7) How does our National Organization fit into the picture?

8) Being more efficient and economical on the farm.

9) Facilitate breaking perceived divide between fiber producers and seed stock producers.

10) Don't share information.

11) Do all the above and still be profitable?

12) Cottage and/or commercial industry - question of scale.

13) Lacking consistent standard for fiber.

14) Discover/identify your customer.

15) Information clearing house to connect grower and product producer - resource accessible.

 

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